Banqueting in Beijing

I bet you've always wanted to know what the Mayor of Beijing serves for dinner. Well, now I am in a position to tell you! Pictures and all.

Recently, while in Beijing with the Mayor of Wellington on a Wellington business delegation, I was honoured to be invited (well, we all were, to be honest) to a banquet with the Mayor of Beijing. You might have heard of Chinese banquets, or you might not have.  Either way, they're something you should try and get in on at some point.  If only for the photo opportunities. I learned a few things:

• you can't possibly eat it all, it's just so plentiful. For those of you who eat with me, you'll know that's a hard lesson for me to learn.
• the Wellington Mayor's vegetarian bent saved us from several other possible scenarios (goose foot anyone?)
• they serve the wine in small portions so you can't get too rowdy in the short time that the event takes (they've met Kiwi business delegations before)
• when the host stands up to leave, it's all over, fetch your coat, outta there, even if you haven't finished
• “gan bei” is how you challenge someone to the bottom of the glass (apparently it translates as 'bottom's up') – and it's very polite to comply, and quite rude to refuse. Usually this is done with China's very own brand of firewater, but wine will work too.
• they sure know how to dress a table
• they actually serve Peking duck in Peking (well, Beijing actually)
• when toasting someone, which is polite to do, you should tap your glass rim below theirs to show them respect (acknowledging their higher status). This can sometimes result in 'races to the bottom' as each person tries to show more respect to the other.   Or, obviously, the opposite, as each tries to stamp their importance (more common among mates, no doubt).  Also after you have toasted, you tip your (likely empty) glass towards the other person as a full stop. 

The lovely 'top' table after the meal

Here are the photos of the courses in order. And the menu. Captions are as per the menu (with some explanations where I feel the need).

Assorted Cold Combination

Mixed Mushrooms Soup

Sauteed Prawns in Two Kinds of Style

Sauteed Asparagus

Braised Tofu in Brown Sauce

Beijing Roast Duck (after some assembly by me)

Noodles (not mentioned on menu)

Baked Cod with Cheese (a little like a fish pie, not sure if this is traditional Chinese, or a nod to our tastes)

Iced Pea Mash (you and I would probably call this soup, this was the most unfamiliar dish on this menu)

Dim Sum and Snack #1 (red bean paste and rice, sweet)

Dim Sum and Snack #2

Seasonal fruit platter (love a bit of dragon fruit, check out that colour!)

Note that each arrived within about 5 minutes of the previous one and sometimes I wasn't ready.  Too bad, the next dish just sat and waited for when I was ready.  It was magnificent.  I true sign of generous Chinese hospitality.

My grandfather was on the very first NZ trade delegation to China in 1973 or 74. He's not around any more for me to ask about the food, but I wonder if it was like this. No reason to assume it wasn't. But imagine how strange it looked to a bunch of Kiwis from 1970s NZ when there were barely restaurants, let alone 'ethnic' ones. I heard told recently that one of the others on that trip was carrying a fruit cake lovingly prepared by his wife in case he had nothing to eat in China.  Even then, no chance, I reckon.

I have more stories of Chinese food in China which I will post over the coming days/weeks. In the meantime, if the Mayor of a major Chinese city invites you to a banquet, accept!