Rugby, Pizza and Pig's Head

The Oval Ball Global Challenge continues unabated which means that I have now watched more rugby in 2 weeks that in probably the last 20 years (that's about 2 games). And what does rugby mean in terms of food? It means pizza and spicy nuts.

I've been experimenting with coatings for nuts and working with the base of 3 cups of nuts to 1 beaten egg, plus salt and spices. Our favourite so far is:

3 cups of raw mixed nuts

1 egg white (don't use a big one, otherwise this could end up LA omletty)

2 T chopped fresh rosemary

½ t freshly ground salt

½ t ground paprika (you can use more if you want to )

1 t brown sugar (I used dark muscovado, but it's not necessary)

Heat oven to 180 degrees. Beat the egg white until sloppily beaten. Stir remainder of ingredients except nuts in to the egg white. Then stir in the nuts. Spread nuts on a baking tray lined with baking paper and roast for 13 minutes or so until the egg white is dry and the nuts roasted (shake the nuts about half way through). Let them cool before serving so that the egg white and salt can go crispy. Don't worry, they don't taste sweet, the sugar just adds to the crunch and helps carry the spice.

Other combos include salt, finely grated lemon zest and chilli. And a Moroccan-inspired mix of salt, nutmeg, chilli, cumin and ground coriander seeds. Try your own and let me know if you hit on a good combo of your own.

Our pizza this week was ricotta spread on the base, proscuitto, canned artichokes, Kapiti's fresh mozzarella and basil (added after the pizza is cooked). I used Annabel Langbein's pizza base recipe from Smart Food for Busy People (an old favourite, with some great early 90s period crockery!). The pizza came out better off than the pizza 'stone' (which was actually an untreated tile that we bought for this very purpose).  Clearly it didn't like that 270 degrees of the oven this time. Coward!

Ex-pizza stone in 3 pieces!

New pizza stone ahoy!

And a couple of weeks ago, I made a pilgrimage to West Auckland to check out The Tasting Shed which an old TV colleague has opened with her husband in an old cider shed on the grounds of Cooper's Creek vineyard. It's a quicker than you imagine 20 minute drive down the spanking new extension to SH16. No more dog leg, just straight through to Kumeu.

You should take the road too and check out the great venue, food and wine on offer from Jo and Ganesh Raj.

The food options are on blackboards around the room and (as the name would suggest) are designed to be shared. Each that we had was a plate of well thought out and creative cooking. The rolled pig's head which was served with kohlrabi remoulade was a firm suggestion from Jo and she was spot on. That and the filo 'cigar' filled with duck confit served with orange salad and red cabbage were highlights of the savory selections. One small criticism: the fish had one too many flavours on it, but that's a small criticism of an otherwise excellent spread.

Our wine match (suggested by Jo, and again spot on) was the Coopers Creek Single Vinyard Arneis 2010 from Gisborne. Dessert was matched with Alvear Pedro Ximenez (that's the grape variety) 2008 from Montilla Moriles (in the Andalucia area of Spain). That's sherry country, but this wasn't a sherry but of a smokey, raisiny, caramely dessert wine. It was very easy to drink with both the Churros con Chocolate and the Brioche French Toast with honey and fig ice cream.

French Toast with Ice Cream and Honey

You should make the trip, either from Auckland, or if you're from further afield, next time you're in the 09. Get out of the city and try The Tasting Shed. Easier to get to than Parnell and way easier to park in than Ponsonby, and chances are the owner will serve you so you know it will be friendly.

Ceiling Lamps at The Tasting Shed

Lasting impressions:

food: surprising and delighting and to share

service: we were spoiled because we know the owner, but I reckon you'll be to

drive out: no hassle at all and parking's a dream

time to go: we were there at night, but it looks like it would be a great sunny day or summer's evening trip (they have an 'dog box' for private functions, which looks like a goodie for a loud laugh without disturbing your dinner neighbours)

also: there's a courtesy van, so you can be delivered home after imbibing
décor: upgrade to an old cider shed and it's sympathetic with a few sweet touches (lovely lamps on the ceiling and apple box shelving)

The Tasting Shed

609 State Highway 16

Kumeu

09 412 6454

www.thetastingshed.co.nz

Twelve go mad in Thorndon

Wellington on a Plate is a great festival of feasting and this year I gathered 11 of my dearest together for a truffle-infused fine dining experience at Le Canard in Thorndon. The Wellington on a Plate set menu of $55 for 3 courses and tea or coffee was the order of the day for about half of us, including me. The other half had the Menu Tradition at $65 for 3 courses, coffee and a glass of wine. Both were highly recommended after we indulged.

Both sets of diners started with Gratinee Duck Truffled Onion Soup. This was a luscious French onion soup made with what must have been duck stock and a touch of truffle. Gruyere croutons topped it off, as is traditional. The soft waft of the truffle lifted this peasant food to another plane. Sorry, no picture as we all woofed it down so fast!

After entree, the table diverged, though we shared around so everyone got to try the dishes. Those on the Tradition menu enjoyed confit duck with cepes (mushroom) sauce and what were described as rustic potatoes, which seemed to be cubed and fried until crisp. Pav reckons the potatoes were good, but prefers a smoother starch with duck prepared this way. Another at the table commented that the duck needed more pepper, but none was on the table. The skin of the duck was crispy though, which is a key test to my mind.

Boudin Blanc

The remainder of us were served a far more subtle dish of chicken boudin (white sausage), with chestnut and olive sauce and a kumara “mousseline” (which looks like a puree, frankly). Again, there was a truffle flavour to the boudin which we discovered was enhanced by breathing in through the nose across the sausage while it was in the mouth.

In France Boudin blanc is traditionally made with pork and milk. Its name contrasts with the more well known boudin noir, or blood pudding. I'm not sure if our boudin included milk, but it was certainly smooth and subtle and rewarded slow and curious eating.

Creme Brulee

Both desserts were perfect ways to end the meal: the largest crème brulee you've ever seen and a delicate selection of mousses. When you order crème brulee, you want as much brulee as possible. And brulee this delivered! A flat shallow pan filled with smooth, creamy custard and a wide crackling of brulee that everyone took great pleasure in smashing with their spoons. The murmurs of delight slowly spread along the table.

Eucalyptus mousse with chocolate and orange

My eucalyptus mousse was a winner. The promise of this dessert enticed me to the restaurant in the first place and it was a delight. Although not a common flavour, the mousse was an excellent vehicle for the subtlety of the tree gum. It was accompanied by chocolate, biscuit crumbs and a orange sauce. These elements all joined into a tour de force of dessert.

As you can tell, I was pretty happy with the night out. The service was welcoming and efficient and the food was gorgeous. This was my second visit to Le Canard, the first having been for my mum's birthday. That was a great evening too.

Lasting impressions:

service: feels family run and welcoming

food: Perigord/South-West French with a few twists and excellent execution

groups: encouraged and well handled. They have several set menus available for groups – including a degustation menu which kicks off with foie gras terrine, if that's your thing.

atmosphere: small, intimate and warm on a very cold night

parking: plenty in the evening. Less likely during the day I guess, unless you risk the supermarket!

deals: they're in the Entertainment Book – complimentary main course with another main course

Le Canard

10A Murphy St

Thorndon

Wellington

04 499 5252

I see that Le Canard has a “fairly-priced” lunch menu. It's the wrong side of town for me, but I might have to wag and go some time, anyway! Don't tell my boss.  

In other news: I saw Cowboys vs Aliens at the Roxy. The pre-show nibbles were excellent. The film less so. I also went to the Hog's Breath for steak. My mum always told me that if I have nothing nice to say, say nothing.